@Mods - A couple months ago I was told that if I rewrote this guide it could be published on the site. I've put this task off since I was trying to get my grades up, but now I'm ready to do it. Is this offer of yours still on the table? If so, I'll be happy to do it. If not, I'll just improve the guide with other information, as opposed to restructure and rewrite it.
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How To Become Pro At Chaining
- Thread starter Diesel
- Start date
Well I heard of shinies and a friend of mine has quite a few of them but I didnt know it was this easy to put into words... I will definitely try using this guide to get some shinies and I personally feel that if I was a mod here I would pin/sticky this thread up immediately seeing as how helpful it is :)
Good
Job
Diesel
I am going to try swarming pokes as thats what your video link says and should be an easier start... Thanks so much for the guide
Much <3
Spear
Good
Job
Diesel
I am going to try swarming pokes as thats what your video link says and should be an easier start... Thanks so much for the guide
Much <3
Spear
I'd redo/update it anyways, but if you aren't going to, can I HTMLize it?
Regarding this... I'm not sure if this works but you can just have the Pokémon with Static or Magnet Pull in the first slot until you start resetting, then switch the Syncher to the front.
It will not.....the synchro has to be 1st in your party at the START of the battle for its effect to take place....
-Black Rayquaza
I have a chain of forty and I've been runnung around and resetting the pokeradar for almost forty Max Repels. What gives?
Also you mention Super Repel a lot in this guide. Why is it better then Max Repel? Max Repel lasts longer.
Edit: WTF? The very second after I send this I get a shiny one!
Edit again: I killed it with a critical hit.....
Also you mention Super Repel a lot in this guide. Why is it better then Max Repel? Max Repel lasts longer.
Edit: WTF? The very second after I send this I get a shiny one!
Edit again: I killed it with a critical hit.....
Super Repel is superior because it's more efficient; at least, I think that's why. In terms of money, at least. Super Repel = $500 for 200 steps, Max Repel = $700 for 250. So, using a Super Repel, you're paying $2.50 per step; with a Max Repel, you're paying $2.80 per step. Small difference, but when you're using loads of Repels, it honestly adds up.
It's ultimately better to have 10 Super Repels and 2,000 steps than seven Max Repels and only 1,750.
I have a quick question... what are some of the better places for a chaining n00b like me to begin chaining? so far i've only chained in the Trophy Garden, and have had limited success (a shiny staravia and 2 shiny roselia) but I figure that's a good place to start, due to the random different pokemon that appear there.
Porygon appeared in the garden yesterday, but I didn't get chance to chain for it... :(
Porygon appeared in the garden yesterday, but I didn't get chance to chain for it... :(
Hmmm
I have an interesting patch that seems to be very troublesome.
Despite for all the world fitting into that peachy 2 + 4 patch setting, both times I've come across this exact setup the 4-away has ended my chain.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
That is basically it, the 3 may not be in a different space.
Can anyone help me confirm/disaffirm this for me, or am I just getting some really rotten luck? (Not even over 10, this pattern, and broken @_@) Or am I just doing the whole 2 + 4 pattern thing by going into the 4 space, should I go into the 2?
I have an interesting patch that seems to be very troublesome.
Despite for all the world fitting into that peachy 2 + 4 patch setting, both times I've come across this exact setup the 4-away has ended my chain.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
That is basically it, the 3 may not be in a different space.
Can anyone help me confirm/disaffirm this for me, or am I just getting some really rotten luck? (Not even over 10, this pattern, and broken @_@) Or am I just doing the whole 2 + 4 pattern thing by going into the 4 space, should I go into the 2?
Hey Diesel, Chrono, and all -- just found the web site -- it has some good info. I am especially interested in Diesel's thoughts on clusters and quadrants. They are exactly along the lines I've been thinking here lately. However, one thing I might add that may explain a few things including ChronoSquare's question.
I've been hanging out in a forum on a different web site with a bunch of folks devoted to chaining for shinies. Early on that community refined the theory around which is the best shaking patch to go to. Instead of locking in on the patch shaking in the fourth box from your location when you trigger the pokeradar -- we've had outstanding results by going to the farthest patch from the center. In some cases that patch is in the third box out -- if it indeed takes more steps to reach that one than the patch in the fourth box (see below). BTW ties are problematic and the suggestion is to just reset. So ... based on that idea let's look at a couple of things.
That is at least part of the reason behing Diesel's suggestion "3. 1, 2, 4 together, 3 far away:". Even if it's not a cluster, if you go to the patch in the fourth patch it may not be as far out as the one in the third patch. Like this:
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Notice the patch in the 3rd box is 6 steps from the center, while the patch in the 4th box is out 5 steps. I've validated this situation many times -- you will break the chain going to 4 and not going to 3.
So ChronoSquare I think that answers your question as well.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Even though this situation does not have a cluster -- and the patches are well distributed in the 4 quadrants (if I understand Diesel's theories on those) you'll notice that in both locations of 3 it is 5 steps to reach as is the patch at 4 -- thus, according to the rules I've been using for chaining, being a tie reset is suggested because of the high probability of breaking the chain.
Just for fun -- here is the situation I think your guide is helping me out on Diesel.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
By the rules I've been working under this situation should be completely safe -- 7 steps is the safest distance there is (both 4 and 8 being somewhat suspect, especially in the latter part of a chain). But I kept breaking my chain. Diesel's thoughts on clusters and isolation and quadrants however may apply mightily in this situation. -- That's how I found this thread -- by Googling for "Pokemon chaining quadrants". I've been working on chaining Porygon and having a real hard time getting my chain higher than 24 (after near 20 attempts). I'm at 33 right now after paying attention to clusters and quadrants.
I've been hanging out in a forum on a different web site with a bunch of folks devoted to chaining for shinies. Early on that community refined the theory around which is the best shaking patch to go to. Instead of locking in on the patch shaking in the fourth box from your location when you trigger the pokeradar -- we've had outstanding results by going to the farthest patch from the center. In some cases that patch is in the third box out -- if it indeed takes more steps to reach that one than the patch in the fourth box (see below). BTW ties are problematic and the suggestion is to just reset. So ... based on that idea let's look at a couple of things.
That is at least part of the reason behing Diesel's suggestion "3. 1, 2, 4 together, 3 far away:". Even if it's not a cluster, if you go to the patch in the fourth patch it may not be as far out as the one in the third patch. Like this:
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Notice the patch in the 3rd box is 6 steps from the center, while the patch in the 4th box is out 5 steps. I've validated this situation many times -- you will break the chain going to 4 and not going to 3.
So ChronoSquare I think that answers your question as well.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Even though this situation does not have a cluster -- and the patches are well distributed in the 4 quadrants (if I understand Diesel's theories on those) you'll notice that in both locations of 3 it is 5 steps to reach as is the patch at 4 -- thus, according to the rules I've been using for chaining, being a tie reset is suggested because of the high probability of breaking the chain.
Just for fun -- here is the situation I think your guide is helping me out on Diesel.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
By the rules I've been working under this situation should be completely safe -- 7 steps is the safest distance there is (both 4 and 8 being somewhat suspect, especially in the latter part of a chain). But I kept breaking my chain. Diesel's thoughts on clusters and isolation and quadrants however may apply mightily in this situation. -- That's how I found this thread -- by Googling for "Pokemon chaining quadrants". I've been working on chaining Porygon and having a real hard time getting my chain higher than 24 (after near 20 attempts). I'm at 33 right now after paying attention to clusters and quadrants.
If I didn't mention it before, there is one more addendum I'd like to make:
If you want many shinies, such as in the range of over 100 from a successful chain, don't be drawn to every successful shiny patch you see. If you enter a patch on an unsafe tile (that is, a tile that is not surrounded on all sides and corners by other grass tiles), that happens to be a shiny patch, there is a chance you chain will end. Probable or improbable as it may be, it can happen. If you find a place in the grass you can stand, where you protect as many 3s from contact with the outer edge, even if you sacrifice 4s to do so, so long as any shinies show up in 1s, 2s, or 3s, you can enter them with confidence your chain will not break. If there are 4s not surrounded, remember, you run the risk of chain-break, despite the obvious reward. Likewise, caution is your best friend. With enough time, you can spend as long as you want waiting for 2-2/4-2 patterns to appear. At the cost of more potential shinies later, you can use your Repels to instead cautiously build a chain.
In my chaining experiences, in particular, with my shiny Torkoal chains (which surpassed 160 in length) I've passed up dozens of unsafe 4s, but I knew that with that somewhat small sacrifice of one shiny, I kept the path safe for dozens more. Enter only protected shiny squares, and the only risks you have for not encountering more shinies is running out of PP for Spore, False Swipe, Seismic Toss, Night Shade, etc., which is easily remedied by mass-growing Leppa Berries in preparation, status or running out of health, fixed by Pokemon who can heal themselves and require PP recharge to do so, or by stockpiling on healing items such as Hyper Potions, Full Heals, and Revives, easily bought by Amulet Coin/Vs. Seeker money-reaping south of Hearthome, the player's own clumsiness at walking into patches they didn't see, weren't paying attention to, etc., which is a point I can't help, and my personal favorite... running out of space in your PC Boxes, which can be remedied by depositing as many of your Pokemon as you can into My Pokemon Ranch; assuming you keep them in ordered blocks of 30, deposit and withdrawl are relatively simple.
If you want many shinies, such as in the range of over 100 from a successful chain, don't be drawn to every successful shiny patch you see. If you enter a patch on an unsafe tile (that is, a tile that is not surrounded on all sides and corners by other grass tiles), that happens to be a shiny patch, there is a chance you chain will end. Probable or improbable as it may be, it can happen. If you find a place in the grass you can stand, where you protect as many 3s from contact with the outer edge, even if you sacrifice 4s to do so, so long as any shinies show up in 1s, 2s, or 3s, you can enter them with confidence your chain will not break. If there are 4s not surrounded, remember, you run the risk of chain-break, despite the obvious reward. Likewise, caution is your best friend. With enough time, you can spend as long as you want waiting for 2-2/4-2 patterns to appear. At the cost of more potential shinies later, you can use your Repels to instead cautiously build a chain.
In my chaining experiences, in particular, with my shiny Torkoal chains (which surpassed 160 in length) I've passed up dozens of unsafe 4s, but I knew that with that somewhat small sacrifice of one shiny, I kept the path safe for dozens more. Enter only protected shiny squares, and the only risks you have for not encountering more shinies is running out of PP for Spore, False Swipe, Seismic Toss, Night Shade, etc., which is easily remedied by mass-growing Leppa Berries in preparation, status or running out of health, fixed by Pokemon who can heal themselves and require PP recharge to do so, or by stockpiling on healing items such as Hyper Potions, Full Heals, and Revives, easily bought by Amulet Coin/Vs. Seeker money-reaping south of Hearthome, the player's own clumsiness at walking into patches they didn't see, weren't paying attention to, etc., which is a point I can't help, and my personal favorite... running out of space in your PC Boxes, which can be remedied by depositing as many of your Pokemon as you can into My Pokemon Ranch; assuming you keep them in ordered blocks of 30, deposit and withdrawl are relatively simple.
CrownFire - If you notice all my optimal patches, they're all at least 6 steps from the center, so they'll always be at least tied for the farthest patch away. However, if you collected a significant amount of your own data for me I might try entering a (3,3). However, by that same logic (4,4)'s would be great choices, but my data shows they are, in fact, terrible.
Lorak - Well said, I'll be sure to add some of your points there to the guide, which I'm (stilllll) in the process of updating. That point about PP is especially good, I've encountered a few problems with that in the past, but I forgot to make note of it and add it to the guide. Thanks as always.
I should come out with a new guide some time around the release of platinum, by the way. After that, I'll have to do some analysis to see if there have been any changes in Platinum.
Lorak - Well said, I'll be sure to add some of your points there to the guide, which I'm (stilllll) in the process of updating. That point about PP is especially good, I've encountered a few problems with that in the past, but I forgot to make note of it and add it to the guide. Thanks as always.
I should come out with a new guide some time around the release of platinum, by the way. After that, I'll have to do some analysis to see if there have been any changes in Platinum.
No prob, always glad to help, to pass on what I've encountered and experienced in the hopes it helps others.
I also have one excellent resource to add, one I've often made use of, and wish to pass on for common knowledge. The site speaks for itself in terms of how useful it is. It doesn't give all of them, but it gives the best ones, in terms of frequency usually, not in terms of ease of chain formation, I think.
Just to put this out there, I was thinking about making a video tutorial/guide about chaining. I know there's one in the guide already, but I'd like to mainly include what to go for and what not to go for in terms of the patch theory, and make it more in depth overall, as well.
Would any of you be interested in helping me with what I should say/actually show in the video? (Because recording a whole chain is way too long)
Would any of you be interested in helping me with what I should say/actually show in the video? (Because recording a whole chain is way too long)
Think you could post what exactly are the chances of seeing a shiny patch before and after reaching 40 (or any other number) in the chain?
So, there's a formation that works well for me and that another user brought up, and it is this:
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Or something to the effect of each patch being in its own respectable quadrant. I've had this work for me (I can't recall it ever breaking a chain of mine) and I just wanted some input from other users if it works or not.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 Y 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4
4 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 4
4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Or something to the effect of each patch being in its own respectable quadrant. I've had this work for me (I can't recall it ever breaking a chain of mine) and I just wanted some input from other users if it works or not.
